Mateo Granados: Fresh. Local. Fabulous.

I hear about Mateo Granados from a few people before I actually get to talk to him myself. David and Ondine mention him when they find out I’m looking for interesting perspectives. And I crosscheck the reference with Julie, my winemaker-foodie friend. She nods her head. Yes. Definitely.

And when I’m talking to Evie at the Tierra Vegetables Farm Stand, she says: “Oh. You HAVE to talk to Mateo.” And she calls him right there and leaves a message with my phone number.

Mateo calls me the next day. I’m driving home and don’t really get a chance to explain myself, but we agree to meet the following Wednesday, at 9:00 am at the Palette Art Café.

I arrive early to sort myself out before he arrives. He rushes in a few minutes late, dripping and sheepish. He’s been at his kitchen making tamales since 6:00 am. He wanted to shower and clean up before he met me. We order coffee and sit down to chat.

He’s animated. He’s not only explaining himself with words. He uses his face, his hands. He gestures. He just starts explaining.

“What I’m doing,” he says, “Is reproducing the food I grew up eating—but with the bounty of Sonoma County growers.” He smiles and nods his head, “Modern Yucatan Cuisine.”

He explains a bit about the Nuevo Latino cuisine movement and states: “But we’re taking it further. We’re making it regional: Flavors of the Yucatan—with Sonoma County flair.”

“I grew up in the breadbasket of Mexico. My father was a butcher and my mother—an artist. This is what I know. This is what I love. This”—he motions to the table in front of us as if there were a grandiose spread right there, “This is just what I do.”

I ask him to explain more of his past. How did he come to Sonoma County? Believe it or not, he came to the US as a professional soccer player. It wasn’t long though, before he injured himself too much to continue to play. “My housemate at the time was Michael Bonaccorsi. We would spend all of our time together tasting. Tasting food. Tasting wine. And expressing ourselves. That is how I learned English: talking about food and wine with Michael Bonaccorsi.”

Michael went on to become one of the first twenty master sommeliers in the United States. Mateo went on to work his way up through some of the Bay Area’s top restaurants and is now a pedigree chef. He’s held positions such as Executive Sous Chef at Masa’s in San Francisco and Executive chef at Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen here in Healdsburg.

LOCAL FINE DINING

Now, Mateo’s goal is to start his own fine dining experience. He aims to bring his refined Mayan recipes to the same level as respected French, Italian, and Spanish cuisine.

He started small. In fact, he went back to square one. In 2004 he started selling his handmade tamales in the Farmer’s Markets all over Sonoma County. His philosophy: “Grow local. Know local. Buy local.”

His commitment to his customers is 100% locally grown and produced. He buys his ingredients from over 30 growers in Sonoma County. “If you love what you do, you have to do it right.” He’s a passionate proponent of not only knowing where his food comes from, but knowing the grower and how it was grown. The Local Harvest website defines community supported agriculture as “putting the farmers’ face on food.”

Mateo certainly puts a face on every ingredient he uses. He describes every dish with a list of identities. It wasn’t just queso fresco. It was Bodega Bay Queso Fresco. Black Sheep bacon. Pug’s Leap Goat Cheese. Black Beans from Tierra Vegetables. And so many more. I couldn’t keep track.

“You can’t beat it. The flavors. The smells. The textures. I get vegetables from Tierra—there’s still earth on them. And roots!” He cups his hands as if he’s holding a bulb of garlic or something and brings them towards his face. I can tell he can smell the earth.

The idea of fresh, local produce is to keep it alive until you use it to cook. He tells me: “Enjoy it while you can. Because the fresher it is, the more alive it is on your plate. The more flavor explodes in your mouth.”

Another part of Mateo’s philosophy is: Respect. Respect the land. Respect the food. Respect the growers. Respect the producers. He knows how much energy, time, and labor it takes to grow a tomato, an onion, a carrot, a pig. Because he knows his suppliers, he doesn’t waste. He creates his signature dishes around what’s available in the season and finds a use for everything. Everything. He doesn’t waste anything because he doesn’t want anything to go to waste. He’s very aware of what he’s throwing away.

He tells me all of this and I take notes. Finally, he takes a moment to sip his coffee and looks at me expectantly: “Do you have any questions?”

“Well,” I say thoughtfully, “Is it possible to have an experience?” He looks at me and thinks for a second and says: “Ok. You want an experience? Let’s go to my kitchen.”

FRESH FAST FABULOUS

We drive to the kitchen where he prepares his tamales. As we get out of his car, he points to two big trucks and adds with a grin: “Those. Those are complete mobile kitchens. I am so committed to local ingredients and the idea of fresh. I bring everything to your site and prepare it right there.”

He shows me around the kitchen and introduces me to his workers who are preparing tamales for his Farmer’s Markets. He makes me taste some of his garnishes: olives from Lou Preston, beets and cabbage cured with bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and cloves.

I realize what he means by keeping the produce alive until it’s on your plate (or in this case—in my mouth). (A few weeks later as I’m writing this article and thinking about his cured beets and cabbage, I’m still salivating from the memory).

“OK,” he pulls a cast iron fry pan from the cupboard, “Let’s make a quesadilla.” He asks his helper to clean some cactus.

“Come over here,” he motions and makes me smell the olive oil. “Can you beat that?” He pours a dollop to the fry pan and turns up the heat. He adds the cactus pads for a few seconds on each side then removes them to a cutting board. Then, he goes into the other room to get out his knives and comes back sharpening one: “To make good food, you have to have good knives.” He’s cheeky.

He slices some onion and crystallizes it in the pan. Then dices the cactus pads, slices a bit of Pug’s Leap Cambremer goat cheese, and layers it all together on a soft tortilla. All of which, he now puts it back in the fry pan, fast. Both sides. Just enough to grill the tortilla and soften the cheese.

He whisks it out onto a cutting board, quarters the quesadilla and decorates the top with tomatilla salsa and his cured cabbage condiments. He tops it all off with a handful of sliced green onion. All the while, he’s lecturing about not wasting anything in his kitchen.

How can you beat that? 10 minutes or less. Fresh. Fast. Fabulous.

He smiles:“Pair it with a crisp Rose and you have yourself a succulent, fine-dining, regional experience.”

MORE ON MATEO
Flickr photo stream for this article
MateoGranadosCatering.com
Interested in attending a Missing Link diner?

PS: You can taste more than his tamales at the Healdsburg Farmer’s Markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays. You can also find a Mateo Granados menu at the Santa Rosa Farmer’s Market on Saturdays and in Sebastopol on Sundays.

Gelato? Sorbet? Ice Cream? Yoghurt?

Wee Johanna was running around her parent’s picnic blanket tonight at music in the square. I had to take this picture. So I do, then I show it to her.

“Messy!” she says. Her parents laugh. “Yes. Messy.”

Her father had taken her and her sister for a walk to look around at what was going on and they came back with ice cream from Powell’s Sweet Shoppe.

I happen to know though, there are THREE places on the square where you can get ice cream or some semblance thereof.

Powell’s Sweet Shop has quite a variety of gelatos.

SnowBunny serves up organic frozen yogurts. I haven’t had a chance to try it yet, but people are Yelping about it over here.

Bovolo’s over on the south side of the square also serves up Italian gelato. I think I’m going to have to get some more opinions about which one is the best.

Maybe I’ll organize a blind tasting.

Volunteers anyone?

Best Japanese Food in Healdsburg

I was visiting with my friend Ana today. We were talking about how our week was going. I ask what she did last night, she tells me she went out with a few friends for Japanese food. I ask her where she went. She says, “We went to that place in Windsor.”

“Hmm.” I’m thinking out loud. “How did you like it?” (Because I’m always thinking about content for this magazine.)

“Honestly? She pauses. “I like Sake ‘O better. I mean. I don’t really like the location of Sake ‘O in that strip mall thing. But I like their food better.”

Now, my interest is peaked, “What do you like?”

“Oooo.” She draws in her breath and her eyes light up. “The martini shimp. Definitely the martini shrimp.” I start searching the drawers in my kitchen for a pen an paper to write things down because I know I’m going to forget.

Now she starts thinking about her experiences at Sake O. “The vegetable tempura.”

I still can’t find a pen.

“Martini shrimp,” I repeat to commit it to my memory. “Martini shrimp. Vegetable tempura.”

“And the dragon roll,” she adds nodding her head. “Yep. The dragon roll” I can see the memory of her last dragon roll in her eyes.

“Ok. Martini shrimp. Vegetable Tempura. And the dragon roll.” I say it again because I can’t find a pen to write it down.

She starts to recite more items from the menu and I have to say, “Only three Ana. How am I supposed to remember any more than three.” But I’m impressed that she can almost recite the menu.

Rent a Scooter and Putter at a Different Pace

One day I was working on this website and as I previewed an article, a Google advertisement popped up: Wine Country Motosports. And I wondered who they were because I am planning to write a short article on  motorcycling out along Skaggs Springs Road at the top of Dry Creek Valley. I wasn’t aware of any places who rented motorcycles–but I thought it would be good to know–when I did write that article.

I clicked on the ad–and arrived at Wine Country Motosports. AND I SAW that they rented electric motor scooters! How fun! I phoned them immediately. I wanted to rent one and scoot on out to explore further afield–for a laugh.

I arranged to rent a scooter that Sunday.

Sunday morning, I got up — I had my regular Sunday morning breakfast (Turkish coffee over a scoop of vanilla ice cream) and probably some toast and eggs with grilled tomatoes. I got dressed and drove up to their warehouse on North Grove Street in Healdsburg.

Ann was there to meet me. I told her I’d never driven a scooter before, but I felt it was something I could handle. She assured me it would be fine. She let me try two or three different ones before I decided which one I felt the most comfortable on. We sorted out the logistics: waviers, helmets, rental agreement, payments ($39 for half a day, $70 for a full day).

I putter out of their parking lot. Five minutes later, I was puttering up Dry Creek Road just going at a slower pace and enjoying the views. I puttered out Lynton Springs Road because I wanted to check out Ridge Vineyards along the way.

There, when I went into taste, I found Rob behind the tasting bar. I’d met Rob and his friend one night at the Ravenous After Hours and we ended up talking about living in Healdsburg and what it takes to be here and why we live here in the first place. Rob is a former investment banker from Chicago. He came out here to live his dream of wine. I stay a while and taste the wines and learn a few things about labels, wine clubs, and the winery itself (which I think I’ll save for another article).

I finished at Ridge Vineyards and continue to putter. I puttered along to Highway 101 and turned right to head out to JimTown General Store for lunch. When I arrive, Kevin (the sous-chef) comes out and says hello. I’d met Kevin and his fiancee Carrie on on the patio at Divine Affair the evening before my multi-media event. He comes out and I ask what he recommends: “Grill cheese sandwich and the beans. Oh…and a side of fruit salad.”

I order–apparently way too much because the cashier raised his eyebrow. And I explained that it was for two people. Stephen was going to meet me to take some pictures of the scooter for the magazine.

We eat. Stephen makes me pose for a few shots outside of the store–ugh. Not my favorite activity. This is one photo I liked though…an action shot with a wall of flowers in the background.

Then we head on up the 128 to Stryker Sonoma. I’d been visiting a few weeks before and I remember liking their Chardonnay and I wanted Stephen to try it.

That was it. I spent about a half of a day puttering around Dry Creek Valley and the Alexander Valley on an electric scooter. A different pace for sure. A different speed of fun.

Quick Links:

Wine Country Motosports
Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs
JimTown Store
Stryker Sonoma